There is much in print about tubes. Here's
some more from the point of view of a repair and hotrod guru.
I hope you find it useful and entertaining, in the true spirit
of the web.
The Driver Tube;
The driver tube is the least understood tube in an amp. If you are putting in matched sets of output tubes (and you really should be) then you are wasting your time and money without a Driver Tube that has been picked for this special job.
Just about every amp with 2 or more output tubes uses a driver tube. Why it is so important is because this tube takes a single signal voltage, and splits it into two. There are actually 2 separate amplifiers in a 12AX7 and in a 12AT7. If each amplifier section in it are working at the same potential - great! But they hardly ever do... so, you need to find one.
As far as I know, no one markets a "driver tube" for musicians, however I do. That's because when I
purchase tubes, I sort them for where in the amp they would perform best. This symmetry in the driver tube allows the 'matched' output tubes to see the same input signal voltage levels, and in turn deliver matching output voltages. When all this and properly biased, the tubes will sound better and last longer. Be sure to read the section on matched sets to fully grasp this vital aspect of your amp.
I WANT TO BUY A DRIVER TUBE RIGHT NOW.
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Preamp Tubes V.S. Output
This is where the tone really happens: in the preamp. Read more about that in "ABOUT PREAMP TUBES". Most amps don't depend on output tube distortion to generate the tone. There is an audible difference in the way preamp tubes distort and the way output tubes distort.
Preamp tubes are capable of much higher levels of distortion (safely), and tend to sound like a finer grit of sandpaper than the course distortion of an output tube. For amps that use EL34's (6CA7), EL84's (6BQ5) like Marshall and Vox; these tubes are likely to impart their own tone and or type of distortion under normal operating conditions. For almost all Fender circuits you will find the 6L6/5881: this is a workhorse clean tube. When working properly, the output tubes do a good job of NOT imparting their own tone, or distortion. In some Marshall's, you'll find 6550's; these tubes are the big brother to the 6L6/5881. They extend the treble a fair amount, and by comparison can be shrill. They also allow you to hear what's going on in the Marshall preamp circuitry with much more detail. Its a good rig for most Metal genre's, as articulation is a key component to a great sound. Its also a great tube for jazz players. The classic Marshall tone is 3) 12AX7's with 4) EL34's for the Rock Arena, for the blues and proto-rock glean its the 40 to 50 Watt version (as above but only 2) EL34's.
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Just to clarify, Output Tubes AKA "Finals" although they do a lot of work, are really not "Power" tubes, as they are often referred to. I'm too old to try to change the world, but, Power Tubes are rectifier tubes, and (almost never seen in audio) regulator tubes. In both cases "power tubes" refers to tubes that are part of the power supply. Output Tubes are not part of the power supply, so it doesn't make sense to call them "Power Tubes".
Examples of power tubes are 5AR4/GZ34, 5Y3, 5V4, 5U4, A03.
Examples of output tubes are 6L6, EL34, 6V6, EL84, 6550.
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About Preamp Tubes;
First off, nobody's tubes sound any better than anyone else's. Its entirely a matter of taste. From one 12AX7 to another, you will hear differences in tone, dynamic range, and distortion characteristics, if you listen to them at clean, low volume settings. If you want to know what they are really doing behind your wall of distortion, first give them a critical low volume listening. If you lack the discipline to do this, then you will never learn what all the different tube qualities are. Its great that you like to play loud - whatever, I do too.
To hear the differences you need only one of
each type, and listen to each one in the socket nearest the input
jack. Here the preamp tubes' effect will be the most evident.
Learning the way you can refine the tone of your amp with tubes
is fun, inexpensive, and worthwhile.
I have sufficient experience to interview you about what style of music, what amp, etc., to be able to advise you on what tubes are most likely to make you "Wow". I don't charge for that if you are ordering tubes from me. But who should you be buying from?
Read "who makes tubes".
I WANT TO BUY A SAMPLE PACKAGE OF PREAMP TUBES.
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Who should you be
buying tubes from?
I love the web. I have the time here to say all I need to, and over and over again. And when I say it, I'm not loosing bench time! This is important so listen up.
First off, lots of people do a great job of
buying whatever tubes are on the market and screening them for
quality. For example; 12AX7A.com, Fender, Groove Tubes, Mesa Boogie
Secondly, the retailers are ready to serve: Guitar Center, your local music store.
Third, mail-order offers low prices: Musicians Friend, others.
Fourth, the web offers worldwide access to retailers, some web-only.
The best place to buy tubes
is from the place that is servicing your amp, provided that they
allow you access to one of their tube testers.
When you buy the tubes from your tech, all your warranty concerns are addressed there; parts and labor. Nobody has to point the finger at anyone else, there are no shipping delays or costs to you when a tube fails. You don't have to make multiple trips between the point of sale and the test machine either. This adds value to the tubes you purchase this way. If your tech doesent carry 12AX7A.COM tubes then ask him to!
The second best place to buy tubes is from 12AXA.com. Its my preamp tube site. All the tubes are Application GradedTM. Of course I also burn-in, test and listen-test each individual tube. All in all, there is no more comprehensive testing and grading done anywhere. The tubes I choose to sell have been picked for the fact that they are not "vanilla" sounding, but instead because they have unique characteristices that are desireable to mainly to musicians, and Hi-Fi enthusiasts.
The 3rd best place to buy tubes is where there is a tube tester! That's it! When you buy a tube you should have the ability to test it! That's the way its been done since the 1930's. When you buy a tube you expect that is a working tube, without shorts or opens. If you're old enough to remember, those tube testers were in Radio Shack to test the NEW tubes as much as for testing your old tubes!
Yes, that many new tubes are bad. This is the leading reason why people often aren't happy with their new boutique tubes. If you buy tubes online, you could really be asking for it. Where do the tested bad tubes go? A) unsuspecting individuals trying to save a buck, who may not have access to a tube tester! B) some mail-order companies. C) to one of the relabeling companies. Well known brands purchase substandard tubes at a deep discount and remove the original manufactures name, replacing it with their own. With tubes, you get what you pay for. This is one reason why my tubes carry my name in addition to the true manufacturers name. I qualify tubes, not pose as a tube maker. D) the dumpster.
Say you buy 3 preamp tubes and 2 output tubes, and 20% of the new tubes in the world are bad. This is realistic, by the way. There's a 100% probability that you'll have to return 1 tube. Then there's a one in five chance you'll be taking that new tube back for replacement, its bad too. Do you want to make three trips or pay three shipping charges? Yes, you will be paying the return freight.
To sum it all up, the absolute best place to buy tubes is from your amp technician who allows you access to one of his tube testers. Your amp will sound better, and you will have saved time and money.
I get that you have integrity, I want to buy my tubes from you.
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Some tubes are almost impossible to use in a high gain circuit due to Hum or Microphonics. A tube that is humming is likely to have leakage from the AC voltage filament supply to the cathode. This not only introduces hum into the circuit but also throws up to 12 volts of AC on an electrode that's only supposed to have less than 2 volts of DC. This means the tube is junk, even if it works, even if you don't really notice that much hum, unless you want to cause your amp to break too. A tube with a short from the heater to the cathode is not uncommon. If it is an output tube, then you will likely pop a fuse; hope that you do. However, if the tube is a preamp tube you will not pop a fuse because the cathode connects to ground via a small resistor (unlike most output tubes, they usually connect to ground directly) which limits the ammount of current. Thats really not good because you are still overworking your power transformer. Power transformers are sensitive to "magnetic saturation", an irreversable condition that prevents full output. Its obvious to the amp owner there is a problem, "it just doesent have the nuts it used to", but is very tricky to spot on the test bench. So all you guys that think the tubes that came with the amp 10 years ago are fine; you dont know, you need to get them checked. You are taking a huge risk. You own a vintage amp? Then you should know how important, expensive, and sometimes impossible to replace those transformers are. But getting your tubes checked and possibly getting you amp to sound better than new is fun - do it.
Microphonic tubes have something loose inside them that, when gently tapped or otherwise vibrated (like sound from your speakers) will cause the tube to make its own sympathetic sound. Just past marginal
microphonic failure you will hear a grumble when you play a bass note. More microphonic tubes wont let you turn up the treble without tearing out a shriek. Worse still you can't play lead style distortion without your amp squawking at you. There are lots of shades here, some grey. If you are hearing any tones that don't belong then you most likely have a microphonic tube. It may plague you only under certain conditions. But a bad tube is good opportunity to upgrade the sound of your amp.
Other failure modes are:
Now wait a minute, you said you just put new
tubes in right? And it sounded great for a while, but now yadda
yadda yadda. Here's what happened. You heard from a friend or
teacher that you need to put in
Brand X tubes to get a good sound, because you were not completely happy with the sound you were getting. Then you went to the store and got those puppies. Somehow you knew that there is a high failure rate in new tubes, and bypassed all mail-order possibilities. Now, you either made the mistake of putting them in yourself, or the technician you took it to biased your amp one of three of the four correct ways that wont work to keep your amp out of the shop. You didn't let some retail clerk put them in, right? Again, the technician you took it to biased your amp one four correct ways, but not the one method that will work to keep your amp out of the shop. This happens all the time. And by the time you figure out your amp REALLY sounds bad, the tubes are off warranty by one day.
I said there are 4 correct ways to bias an
amp. One of them is better, so your amp is more likely to stay
out of the shop. Unknowing or unscrupulous repair shops will make
you a steady tube customer. Who's to blame? Maybe the tubes they
are using, maybe the tech, maybe you had something really go south
in your amp. Either way, if your back for a third set of output
tubes in a year then you're to blame! Go find a tech who knows
what the good tubes are and how to keep your amp out of the shop.
Follow his recommendations, and pay a little extra for (probably his) good tubes because you will save money in the not too distant future.
HOW DO I FIND A TECH?
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How Do You Find A Tech?
Call the amp manufacturer, and get the name of a factory authorized service center. If there isn't one, ask your friends if the shop they use does good work. Use the Yellow Pages - Believe it or Not - This is the heading: Musical Instruments - Repairing.
A busy shop will not have the best turnaround times. A good shop will always be busy. In my area shops doing quality repairs have 4 to 8 weeks turn.
My shop is open weekdays. I charge a premium
of twice the labor for emergencies. I also will go to the customer,
but for a minimum charge. I bring everything under the Sun and
fix it on the spot.
I WANT YOU TO FIX MY AMP.
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There are variations in any manufactured product, this is especially true in tubes. What matching does is pair up tubes that are equal in potential. Typically, we're talking about Output Tubes, although there is a need for matching in driver tubes. By using matched sets, you get an equal amount of output voltage swing and current driving capability from each side of the push-pull audio transformer.
To try to visualize this: picture each of your hands as an output tube. Put your hands together like you are praying, only with a sheet of paper in between your hands; that's the speaker. Now push from
side to side. Notice that the speaker moves to either side of center. Now what happens if one of your arms is made to push harder? Your weak tube gets beat up, and the strong one has to work harder, try it. Lots of people match output tubes and do a very good job of it. Its expensive to do, in labor and electricity, and its worth it for you because in the not so long run its cheaper.
Matching tubes can also entail BURN-IN time. This addresses "infant mortality". Infant mortality describes the effect of most parts that will fail prematurely will do so in the first 24 to 48 hours of use. What burn-in is, is simply putting a device (tube) under conditions that resemble an actual circuit, and let it sit there and run. Then you test it to see if still works. If it does, two things happened:
1) The future reliability of that same tube went way up.
2) The BIAS POINT of the tube drifted. Again, you get a more reliable tube, because it wont need to be readjusted two days after you put the new tube in! Read more about bias.
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WHO MAKES TUBES?
At this time, Groove Tubes actually does make tubes. They have purchased the original tooling to produce US made 6L6s' and are manufacturing these in the USA. They also make an import KT66 and one particular 12AX7, useing gold in the construction of the control grid. That's all they make at this time. The rest of their tube line is, as it always has been, a representation of all the worthwhile tubes made, mostly currently. They, like Fender, Marshall, Mesa Boogie, Ruby, TNT, do a very good job of screening out the bad tubes and putting their own name on them. To the best of my knowledge, Groove Tubes is the only one on that list who manufactures any tubes, and that represents only a small portion of what they offer. Fender is now shipping "Fender Groove Tubes'" in their amps. All the ones I've seen still carry a third name, the name of the actual manufacturer: Sovtek.
Marshall has dropped Sovtek from certain model amps, and is currently shipping Svetlana tubes in
their amps (pronounced Sevitlana). Prior to that they had used Tesla tubes for a long time, and are currently made also. EI was apparently on the wrong end of Western politics, and the manufacturing plant in Yugoslavia fell down, went boom. Its production of tubes rises and falls to this day. The highly abused Chinese Sino 12AX7 was the tube everyone loved to hate, while at the same time widely used or the production of new amps. The tooling is said to have been put outside, and has gone to rust. I guess another form of friendly fire.
There is more than one tube manufacturer in China! Lets not lump everyone together unfairly. Just like there is more than one Russian tube company, there are few enough choices in tubes to start getting a National Bias (is this a joking matter?). For anyone who cares, there is a market for American made tubes, as proven by the gentleman who purchased the tooling and licensing of the name from Westinghouse - who is making the 300B in the good old USA. The import 300B's sell for up to $300, so it's a fair guess the American made Westinghouse will cost more. By the way, the 300B is IT for true hi-fi. If you want to buy a guitar amp that uses this 42 watt triode please tell me.
I WANT TO BUY EXTINCT TUBES WHILE I STILL CAN.
I WANT TO BUY 300B'S.
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This is for geeks like me. Its misunderstood, there's too much misinformation out there, and my best customers are the ones know something, so here goes. I'll keep it simple, and cover some stuff you wont find elsewhere!
Preamp tubes are in a self adjusting circuit, so they never need biasing. We are referring now to output tubes.
Bias is an adjustment that determines how hot a tube runs. It also determines what the duty cycle is of a tube in a push-pull circuit. The amplifier design determines what class of operation the tube will run in, and so in turn determines what the correct bias point is. Regardless of class, there is a range of proper adjustment!
You need to know what you are doing to make
this adjustment or you can seriously damage your
amp, sometimes irreversibly.
Since the Audio transformer design dictates Class of operation, how much voltage verses current at idle is also a function of design. Class A runs a lot of current at idle, Class B barely a trickle. Watts equal Amps times Volts, so depending on the design, you may be setting the bias either too hot or too cold when you set the bias to say, minus 52 Volts.
Tubes also vary, and picking an arbitrary bias Voltage can only be useful if all your tubes run at the same potential. Its not the same thing but if it helps, think of it in terms of efficiency. Under any given set of conditions different tubes will perform more or less work. Tubes within a manufactured lot vary. From one model of tube to another of the same type, there is variation. There is an even greater variation from manufacturer to manufacturer.
To build a 6L6 you need to meet the specifications for tube type (beam power, pin basing), for the maximum Wattage rating (ability to deal with heat), maximum plate voltage, maximum control grid to cathode voltage, some inter-electrode capacitance stuff. The point being that there is a lot that's not said about the design. They vary by design and by the fact that they are manufactured (manufacturing tolerances).
I'll bet this is more concise and complete
than anything you've seen. I hope you enjoyed it. Feel free to
print it for you own personal use but do not duplicate it, as
it is copyright protected material.
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To get the most life out of your tubes you should warm them up before playing them. Don't leave the amp on forever because the transformers have a 112 degree F ceiling, and no way to cool down unless the amp is off. As far as longevity of the transformers go, 2 hours on, OFF not standby while you take a break, 2 more hours of on-time. Back to tube longevity. Different tubes have different warm up times. Pre-amp tubes take 13 seconds, output tubes take about the same time in most cases. They take longer to warm up as they wear out. So giving them 30 seconds should do. If they play loud and clean when you take the amp off of "standby" then they were ready. Other exceptions are the EL84/6BQ5, and my favorite rectifier the GZ34/5AR4. The EL84 takes about 45 seconds to warm up. The GZ34 takes longer to warm up than any of the other tubes do, and that is by design.
The GZ34 is a slow-start rectifier tube. It's job is to convert the high AC voltage into high DC voltage. Most standby switches disconnect the DC high voltage from whatever rectifier there is in the amp from the other tubes. It would be beneficial to any amp that does not have a standby switch to use a GZ34 rectifier tube. It is pin compatible with the most common rectifier tubes. Any issues would arise if the pin basing were different of if the GZ34 drew more heater current than the other rectfier type. In most cases it's close enough and the power transformer can handle it with out over-heating. The advantage of the GZ34 is mainly that it warms up after the other tubes do, eliminating the need to have or use the standby switch completely. It happens to have just enough compression to please me, greatly.
A lot of Fender amps use a GZ34 at one point in time and then a 5U4 at another. If you use the GZ34 in the amp without a standby switch tubes will last longer because they will not suffer from "cathode stripping." The 5Y3 also has the same pin basing.
Now the biggie no one ever told you about. You need to let your amp cool down for 3 minutes before you move it! A normally functioning tube amp will have bulb temperatures over 300 degrees F. It takes 3 minutes once completely powered down to reach 140 degrees F. Scalding hot is 180 degrees F. The tube is like a light bulb (vacuum, filament), and both undergo changes in shape and in flexibility as they cool.As the filament cools it also becomes more brittle, so if you move the tube as it is transitioning from its' orange hot malleable state to its cold brittle sate you stand a good chance of wrecking the tube. And it not only the heater that behaves this way, but the rest of the electrodes too. The screens get hot too, and I've seen plenty of screen wires get loose in the tube and short out to something else.
So tell your tour manager, the tube amps get
switched off first and taken off stage last.
Who makes the best GZ34?
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